Letter from Apia. Commonwealth Round Table's Matthew Neuhaus on the opening of CHOGM in Samoa. photo shows People's Forum openingOpening of the People's Forum at CHOGM 2024. [photo from Matthew Neuhaus video]

[Australian professor and diplomat Matthew Neuhaus is sharing his experiences at the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting in Apia, Samoa.]

Arriving in the beautiful South Pacific islands of Samoa – inspiration for the musical “South Pacific” – you immediately know CHOGM is happening. Into Apia and across the island all the villages have adopted a CHOGM country.

They are decorated with the flags and colours of those countries from Antigua and Barbuda to Zambia. Australians will be struck by a village near the airport which is covered in green and yellow kangaroos and flying endless Australian flags mingled with Samoa’s distinctive red flag with a Southern Cross in one corner.

In Apia itself CHOGM banners are everywhere, particularly along the CHOGM peninsula of hotels and government buildings where the main events are being held. On the other side of the harbour a moored cruise ship, providing much needed accommodation, looms over the famous and beautifully refurbished Aggie Grey’s Hotel where the Business Forum will be held.

CHOGM day one broke with a small harbourside opening ceremony where a local vessel brought the CHOGM torch to shore for Prime Minister Fiame and the Secretary General. The three main civil society forums – Peoples, Youth and Women – kicked off with separate opening ceremonies.

Prime Minister Fiame Ma’atafa opened the Peoples Forum with the phrase of the moment “Talofa with a smile”. Talofa is the much used Samoan word for greeting and the one word we will all remember from Samoa. She emphasised that her “Talofa with a smile” campaign had been launched to deepen a sense of real service in Samoa’s public service.

This led her on to speak in broader Commonwealth terms about the importance of service. It has certainly worked in Samoa – or may be it was always there. Everyone is extremely helpful to their guests.  Arrangements and accreditations have gone smoothly and there are many obliging taxis to support the shuttle buses moving around Apia is easy.

Articles for the Round Table Journal by Matthew Neuhaus
Derek McDougall’s Samoa diary

We spent the day at the Peoples Forum with a brilliant program organised by the ever active and smiling Anne Gallagher and her team with a strong focus on the challenges of climate change. Despite the distant location Commonwealth CSOs (civil society organisations) based in London were well represented and the diverse group of speakers came from across the Commonwealth. But it was a Forum with a distinctive Pacific voice and especially the voice of women and youth  – “not drowning but fighting” in the face of the climate emergency.

The formal sessions were mixed with Pacific culture – with poetry, music, dance and even at the end of the day by a dramatic display of a fire dance. All though had a serious message. Separate delegate led sessions focused on health justice and climate justice with freedom of expression a focus tomorrow.

Despite some concerns, at this point CHOGM remains heavily focused on the climate issues which is how Samoa wants it.  Discussion on reparations for slavery, Zimbabwe and geo-politics may yet come as Leaders arrive and side events begin. There is necessarily much discussion over who to choose as the next Secretary General. But both in organisation and substance CHOGM week is off to a good start with CSOs helping setting the agenda and climate and a small state voices focus very strong.

Commassoc [Commonwealth Association] members will be pleased to know that Angela and I caught up for dinner with the great Tuiloma Neroni Slade and Jeanne at their beautiful home in the hills overlooking Apia Harbour. It was so good to see them and Neroni will be speaking at one of the many CHOGM side events.

Matthew Neuhaus is the Hon Professor, ANU College of Law, President of the Australian Royal Commonwealth Society and a member of the Round Table’s international advisory board.